The 2007 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso is massive, tannic and imposing. There is plenty of richness and concentration of the fruit, but the tannins and structural components are equally intense. This needs time to settle down, but ultimately I am not sure there is enough fruit to balance the tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Davide Moschioni makes some of the richest reds in Friuli. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso shows gorgeous intensity and richness in its dark fruit, roasted coffee beans, licorice and new leather. There is wonderful clarity and definition here, but the wine will be even better in a few years. For now, the wine’s opulence and balance augur quite well for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. This is a compelling set of wines from Davide Moschioni, a small artisan grower who continues to lead the way in demonstrating the level Friuli’s reds can reach. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2004 Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso offers an exotic mix of juniper berries, spices, black pepper and jammy super-ripe dark fruit with an austere personality and almost-medicinal overtones. This powerful, structured wine is a reference-point Refosco and is likely to appeal most to adventurous readers. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Michele Moschioni's tiny estate is located in Cividale. An afternoon spent in his cellar is a fascinating education in the purity of expression that Friuli's indigenous red varietals are capable of achieving in the hands of a serious, passionate producer. Moschioni credits Romano Dal Forno as an early inspiration for his wines. He is also very close to Gravner, Damijan and Zidarich, all small artisan producers who craft hand-made, natural wines. Moschioni favors late harvests which can stretch into mid-October or early November. Because fruit often struggles to ripen in this northerly microclimate, in some vintages Moschioni performs a slight drying or appassimento on a portion of his grapes. As Moschioni says, he likes fat wines and these are powerful, intense offerings with dry extract levels that are off the charts. The wines are fermented using only natural yeasts. For his top bottlings - Pignolo, Schiopettino and Rosso Real - Moschioni uses open-top wood fermenters without temperature control. The wines all do malolactic fermentation in French oak (Allier and Tron?ais, roughly 80% new) where they age for about two and a half years. The SO2 levels are minuscule and the wines see no fining or filtration prior to being bottled in accordance with the lunar phases. In short, these wines are among the most natural, unmanipulated wines readers will encounter from anywhere in the world. Consumers who want to understand the potential of indigenous varieties like Pignolo and Schiopettino owe it to themselves to check out the stunning wines of Michele Moschioni. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907