Brouilly is the largest of the Beaujolais crus (the individual villages in the northern part of the Beaujolais region). Its wines are the softest and least demanding of the crus, and this wine is typical. It has an enticing purple color, aromas of cherries and red currants, and open, generous flavors of strawberries. In the month when Beaujolais Nouveau 2003 will be launched, it is worth remembering that some Beaujolais is better drunk after a year’s aging.——R.V.(11/15/2003)—— 86