Here is a well-priced blend of 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara with the fresh fruit and easy appeal to pair with pizza topped with broccoli, sausage and chili flakes. The 2016 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore I Castei Costamaran (with an ample 40,000 bottles made) offers easy cherry and dried raspberry aromas with licorice, tar and light touches of barbecue smoke on the close. The wine ages slowly in botte grande for 18 months.

A blend of 75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella and 5% Molinara, the 2011 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore Costamaran I Castei opens to dark color and concentration. Aged in botte grande and refermented on the lees for more density and extract, the wine opens to generous aromas of brown sugar, sweet tobacco, dried fruit and prune. In the mouth, it shows balanced acidity and sweetness and delivers a milder impact with thinner structure than you may initially expect. Drink 2014-2018. Sergio and Maria Castellani farm 40 hectares in the Classico zone that are almost all planted to the traditional Pergola training system. The overhead trellis is making a comeback in these beautiful hills after many years of experimentation with cordons, cane-pruned vines and other international systems. The family sources fruit from two important single vineyards, Ca del Pipa and dei Castei, and each represents its own line of wines under the Castellani Michele & Figli brand. Importer: Bedford International, www.winesfrombedford.com

Oak and oriental spices. Tarry, evolved fruit, lacks charm and persistence.