Messmer’s 2008 Riesling Kabinett trocken Schiefer (from the Schawer) displays a taut and relatively austere personality in common with a number of the dry wines at this address this vintage. Gooseberry, grapefruit, and lime inform a pungently aromatic and emphatically bright and phenolic expression of Riesling that could almost be mistaken for Sauvignon. There’s certainly no more overlooking the wet stone underlying character than there is the chalk undertone exhibited by the corresponding Muschelkalk bottling, so to that extent nomen est omen and terroir (or its illusion) rules. The best part of this wine – for now at least – is its face-slapping and smelling salt-like invigoration. I’d tentatively plan on its going strong for 4-5 years, though it really needs monitoring later. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Their excellent 2006 Riesling Kabinett trocken Shiefer comes form the estate’s top Riesling site, the (unusual for the Pfalz) slate-rich Burrweiler Schawer. (The comparable bottling used to be labeled with the site name, but no such “competition” is allowed by the regulations governing Grosses Gewachs, and this year Messmer decided to begin bottling a Schawer Grosses Gewachs.) Smelling almost Mosel-like of apple, clover, and lemon, this also comes to the palate with surprising delicacy for a dry Pflaz Riesling of its vintage; displays a flattering, glossy texture and peach and citrus fruit; and clings satisfyingly. It should drink well for 3-4 years. Following a highly successful collection in 2005, the Messmers struggled like so many of their neighbors with conditions in 2006. They added pickers and managed to bring in the crop in only two weeks.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300