What a difference a little classification makes: Messmer’s 2008 Pinot Gris Selection escapes having to carry a longer name (or inhabit a massive bottle) thanks to this grape (grown cheek by jowl with its Pinot Blanc sibling in the Goldenen Jost) not being approved for labeling as Grosses Gewachs. Peach, toasted almond, citrus zest, and wood smoke in the nose usher in a palate of flattering creaminess, glyceral-richness, and luscious fresh fruit. This came as a pleasant shock after an awkward 2007 rendition, and I imagine it might prove highly versatile for as long as 6-8 years, though that’s entirely speculative. It had been too long since I’d seen Gregor Messmer (although I am at his winery annually) and I was encouraged by witnessing him professing his rededication to his vineyards. That said, after a 2007 collection that was the best I had tasted here in a number of years, I found that some of these 2008s – which were harvested between the 18th and 30th of October – leaned rather sharply in the direction of leanness and Sauvignon greenness and shared with many of their fellow Pfalz trocken Rieslings an extremely tart brightness.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300