The 2009 Ribolla Gialla is one of the more extroverted wines in this lineup. Layers of ripe, almost tropical fruit emerge from a mid-weight yet generous frame of notable elegance. The wine literally bursts on the palate, with superb definition and fabulous overall balance. To be sure, the ripe style calls for equally bold food, but the minerality and overall poise are brilliant. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Meroi is one of the most exciting young wineries in Friuli. One gets the sense the estate is close to major breakthroughs, especially with their reds. The wines I tasted from barrel during a recent visit point to a bright future. Importers: Small Vineyards, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 933-6767, Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4022