The mere hints of residual sugar in Melsheimer’s 2009 Riesling feinherb seems to pick-up the aromatics as well as kick-up the sense of ripe fruit (the scents and flavors in question being those of apple, winter pear, melons, and nut oils). At only 11% alcohol, this also displays noticeably more delicacy than the Molun or Langeberg, if not quite the same grip. Bitter herbs and crushed stone add interest to a juicy, persistent finish. I would plan on enjoying this over the next 2-3 years. I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799