An only very subtly sweet 2009 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Kabinett feinherb A.P. #16 hides its feinherb identity in fine print, but note this bottling represents the Melsheimer Kabinett that’s being sold by the U.S. importer. Pumpkin and pink grapefruit make for an odd but delightful couple on the nose and on a succulent, juicy palate tinged with the piquancy of fruit pit, toasted pumpkin seeds, and lightly-roasted coffee as well as the invigorating tartness of apple skin. This outstanding value is impeccably-balanced and subtly, seductively creamy. A long, buoyant, bittersweet finish caps a fine performance that ought to be worth experiencing repeatedly over at minimum the next 6-8 years. I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799