Melsheimer Reiler Mullay Hofberg Riesling Auslese

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Heady floral perfume, over-ripe peach, and the prickle of botrytis spice scent a Melsheimer 2009 Reiler Mullay-Hofberg Riesling Auslese, which comes to the palate boasting a liquid version of its decadent florality, almond extract, peach preserves, and caramel. Even without the mineral dimension of its two sweet Spatlese counterparts, this manages not to tip into the realm of treacle. But I would want to permit it to mature and hopeful thereby become more nuanced, perhaps over the next decade. I was so fascinated by the highly distinctive wines I tasted last year from organic pioneer Melsheimer (reported on in issue 187, where I also describe some of the many sites he cultivates) that I felt compelled to return. Unfortunately, he was abroad selling for the entire time that I spent in Germany, but I visited and tasted a substantial portion of the 2009 collection with his family. Several dry wines, including some he considers among his top lots were, however, in too unfinished a state even in September for him to be willing to show them to me, and it is to be expected that some of his 2009s will only be offered for sale next year. So far, I have tasted relatively few older Melsheimer wines, and they are all conspicuously (I mean sensorially, not merely on paper) low in sulfur, so I prefer to be both conservative and vague in any prognoses of age-ability.Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799