A winemaking history in a bottle, this Georgian wine made from Rkatsiteli grapes is an unusual peek into techniques tracing back 8,000 years. Deep gold in color due to an extended maceration on grape skins, this wine was aged in buried clay vessels, then oak, giving it a smoky, earthy profile with notes of butterscotch and roasted nut skins. There’s not a lot of acidity, but it’s refreshing with pretty orange peel notes and a grape tannin astringency on the finish.——A.I.(5/1/2011)—— 84