From a single parcel that was owned by the former proprietors of Simmonet-Febvre, a 2006 Chablis Mont de Milieu smells alluringly of diverse flowers, ripe apricot, pineapple, and lime zest. Offering more cut, clarity, and refreshment than the other Simmonet-Febvre bottlings of the vintage, this finishes with infectious primary fruit juiciness, if not with anything I can describe as mineral or deem especially Chablis-typical. The aromatically high-toned, vividly pit-fruited 2005 had impressive tactile palate presence and admirable length. Louis-Fabrice Latour and oenologue Jean-Charles Thomas presented a 2006 collection that displayed the opulent richness that one would anticipate from such a ripe vintage, and from the Latour house style. Sometimes these wines want a bit for clarity, definition and distinctiveness – occasionally they are rather obviously marked by dairy flavors from their malolactic conversion – but the best of them have much to offer. Since I did not have opportunity to include in my issue 179 report notes on the Chablis bottlings of Simmonet-Febvre – a domaine Latour purchased in 2003 (and which also bottles some lovely sparkling wines) – I have made note of them here.Louis Latour has numerous importers throughout the U.S.