The 2020 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is also very promising, unwinding in the glass with notions of raspberries, orange rind, clove and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, with a bright spine of tangy acidity, it's beautifully balanced. On paper, this is a site that should suffer in dry vintages, but Jadot's old-vine holdings (formerly belonging to the Chateau de Chorey) have turned out a fine performance all the same.

Another highlight this year—and what's new?—is the 2019 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey), an elegant, nicely concentrated wine that offers up notes of cherries, red berries, rose petals, orange rind and spicy oak. Medium to full-bodied, with refined tannins and lively acids, it's one of the house's finest Beaune bottlings.

The 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is showing beautifully from bottle, bursting from the glass with notes of cherries, red berries, petals, orange rind and spices. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and vibrant, with velvety tannins, tangy acids and fine depth at the core, it's seamless and refined, with a long, mouthwatering finish. This has turned out superbly.

The 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Aux Cras (Domaine Gagey) is showing beautifully, unfurling in the glass with an inviting bouquet of sweet red berries, raw cocoa and dried orange rind that's already superbly integrated, albeit still a little shy after its recent bottling. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and supple, with a fleshy core of succulent fruit framed by exquisitely refined tannins. While this is more than charming enough to be approachable young, with a decade or more of bottle age, it will really punch above its weight.