The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges Village opens in the glass with aromas of grilled meat, forest floor, red and black cherry and orange rind, framed by light reduction which dissipates with aeration. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, sturdy and deep at the core, with chewy concentration and tannin that asserts itself on the finish. This is one of the more foursquare villages wines in the Drouhin portfolio this year, and one which will require some time in the cellar.

Also recommended, but no tasting note given. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

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