Austere and brooding aromatically, the medium-to-dark-colored Nuits-St.-Georges exhibits a highly-structured, four-square, tannic, spicy, minerally, medium-bodied personality. While it is not particularly concentrated or long, it is a well-made, extremely terroir-expressive wine. Due to its slightly hard tannins, it requires 2 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2003. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. As I tasted through Drouhin's offerings of 1995 red burgundies, I was struck by just how differently each terroir expressed itself. Generally, in truly great vintages ('85 and '90 in Burgundy and '82 and '90 in Bordeaux), young reds, at least when young, tend to express vintage characteristics more than individual terroirs. 1995 is an outstanding vintage, just below the quality of '85 and '90. However, the terroir characteristics of the 1995s are very evident, especially at Maison Joseph Drouhin. Perhaps the tight, concentrated fruit that characterizes 1995 allows more room for the terroir to show itself (as opposed to '85 and '90's lush forward, expressive fruit). Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.