The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet les Embrazees 1er Cru has a far more energetic and focused bouquet than the Abbaye de Morgeot. The palate is well defined with a fine thread of acidity, subtle traces of orange rind and dried apricot here with a brisk, slightly saline finish that is understated but very pleasurable.

The 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet les Embrazées 1er Cru has a slightly richer bouquet than expected with just a light brush of honey over the citrus fruit. The palate is a rounded texture, a slight viscosity here, powerful and intense if just missing a touch of nervousness and race on the finish. Still, this is very enjoyable if maybe not the finest Chassagne Benny Leroux conjured this year.

The 2013 Chassagne Montrachet les Embrazees 1er Cru has a focused, wet stone and undergrowth-tinged bouquet with granitic scents emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with fine acidity, touches of mango and citrus lemon, very good weight in the mouth with a cheeky dab of toffee towards the long finish. Excellent.

The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embrazees had also just finished its malo-lactic, although here a little sulfur had been added. It is endowed with more tropical scents on the nose when compared to Les Baudines – more generous and open on the nose at this stage. The palate is concentrated with spice-tinged orange zest and quince notes. There is a gradual build toward a complete, quite harmonious finish that has superb persistency. Excellent. There is one vigneron pleased about the late running of the 2013 harvest more than any other – Benjamin Leroux. “I had my third baby two weeks ago,” he reveals, though he looks in unnaturally fine fettle given the sleepless nights he must surely be enduring. I met Benjamin at his winery located just off the Beaune ring road opposite Albert Bichot and Domaine des Croix. Here he vinifies all his negociant wines that are labeled under his name, and when he is not there, you will probably find him down in Domaine Comte Armand, where he has been responsible for recent vintages. He shares the facility with Nicolas Rossignol, whose wines I tasted directly afterwards. Those wishing to glean more information on Leroux’s background should peruse the article I wrote in the August issue of The Wine Advocate concerning Clos des Epeneaux. He told me that he will bottle his 2012s relatively early this year and, in fact, several were already under cork. Like practically everyone, his crops are depleted in 2012 depending upon the area, up to 80% in the worst affected by frost and hail. The samples that I tasted were either in bottle (wines with single figure scores) or in barrel just after malo-lactic but before racking (given by banded scores). Generally, these constituted an outstanding set of wines, albeit often in miniscule quantities, which is why some of the cuvees are exclusive to certain markets (for example, you will have to go to Hong Kong to find his elusive Clos Saint Denis.) While the grand crus could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with many growers, readers should check out some of his over-performing Village and Premier Crus, particularly the former that were bolstered by the blending of the latter due to depletion of crop. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chassagne-Montrachet les Embrazées 1er Cru 2011 has a more complex nose than Vincent Morey’s, with enticing scents of melted butter, honeysuckle and yellow flowers gently unfolding. The palate is crisp and taut with well-judged acidity. There is pleasant edginess here with a precise and focused, minerally finish. This is outstanding.