Notes of plums, sweet berries, raw cocoa and grilled squab, framed by a touch of youthful reduction, introduce the 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey, a medium to full-bodied, ample and lively wine that's sapid and savory. This will demand a little patience but may make my rating seem conservative.

The 2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey has a sense of airiness on the nose with perfumed black cherry and bergamot scents, and just a faint touch of sea-spray. The palate is smooth and silky, partly due to it being completely destemmed; then there is a sharp acidic thread that lends tension towards the finish that shows just a slight attenuation.

The 2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey that Benjamin now farms organically, has a fruit-driven bouquet with scents of black plum, blackberry and a touch of oyster shell - this is a serious nose that means business. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, plenty of energy and a gorgeous saline finish. This is a top wine from Benjamin Leroux who has really got the best from these vines this year.

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey offers dark cherries, wild strawberry and a touch of quince on the brisk, focused bouquet that mellows nicely in the glass. The palate is smooth and sensual on the entry with raspberry, crushed strawberry and tea leaf, leading to a poised, natural finish. It perhaps just lacks the personality and charm of other cuvees as this stage. There is one vigneron pleased about the late running of the 2013 harvest more than any other – Benjamin Leroux. “I had my third baby two weeks ago,” he reveals, though he looks in unnaturally fine fettle given the sleepless nights he must surely be enduring. I met Benjamin at his winery located just off the Beaune ring road opposite Albert Bichot and Domaine des Croix. Here he vinifies all his negociant wines that are labeled under his name, and when he is not there, you will probably find him down in Domaine Comte Armand, where he has been responsible for recent vintages. He shares the facility with Nicolas Rossignol, whose wines I tasted directly afterwards. Those wishing to glean more information on Leroux’s background should peruse the article I wrote in the August issue of The Wine Advocate concerning Clos des Epeneaux. He told me that he will bottle his 2012s relatively early this year and, in fact, several were already under cork. Like practically everyone, his crops are depleted in 2012 depending upon the area, up to 80% in the worst affected by frost and hail. The samples that I tasted were either in bottle (wines with single figure scores) or in barrel just after malo-lactic but before racking (given by banded scores). Generally, these constituted an outstanding set of wines, albeit often in miniscule quantities, which is why some of the cuvees are exclusive to certain markets (for example, you will have to go to Hong Kong to find his elusive Clos Saint Denis.) While the grand crus could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with many growers, readers should check out some of his over-performing Village and Premier Crus, particularly the former that were bolstered by the blending of the latter due to depletion of crop. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is some under-ripeness here on Leroux’s Nuits St Georges Aux Thorey, which juts out from the brambly red berry fruit nose. It is nicely defined but herbaceous and leaner than expected. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy/saline entry. I find a little heat on the mid-palate that rather disturbs the harmony on the finish. Perplexing.