The 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet Village, which comes from Les Veroillot Dessus, has a poised, mineral-driven bouquet that is very focused and taut, like the Auxey-Duresses coming across quite Puligny-like in style. The palate is well-defined with a light wild honey entry. There is good weight and breadth in the mouth, nicely judged acidity and it fans out with attractive mandarin and dried mango notes on the spicy finish. Excellent. There is one vigneron pleased about the late running of the 2013 harvest more than any other – Benjamin Leroux. “I had my third baby two weeks ago,” he reveals, though he looks in unnaturally fine fettle given the sleepless nights he must surely be enduring. I met Benjamin at his winery located just off the Beaune ring road opposite Albert Bichot and Domaine des Croix. Here he vinifies all his negociant wines that are labeled under his name, and when he is not there, you will probably find him down in Domaine Comte Armand, where he has been responsible for recent vintages. He shares the facility with Nicolas Rossignol, whose wines I tasted directly afterwards. Those wishing to glean more information on Leroux’s background should peruse the article I wrote in the August issue of The Wine Advocate concerning Clos des Epeneaux. He told me that he will bottle his 2012s relatively early this year and, in fact, several were already under cork. Like practically everyone, his crops are depleted in 2012 depending upon the area, up to 80% in the worst affected by frost and hail. The samples that I tasted were either in bottle (wines with single figure scores) or in barrel just after malo-lactic but before racking (given by banded scores). Generally, these constituted an outstanding set of wines, albeit often in miniscule quantities, which is why some of the cuvees are exclusive to certain markets (for example, you will have to go to Hong Kong to find his elusive Clos Saint Denis.) While the grand crus could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with many growers, readers should check out some of his over-performing Village and Premier Crus, particularly the former that were bolstered by the blending of the latter due to depletion of crop. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)

The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet comes across as quite rich and round, with plenty of up-front fruit. This is a pretty straightforward effort. It shows less of the textural elegance of the best wines here, but that may be asking too much. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Benjamin Leroux is quite and unassuming, but his wines more than speak for themselves. I tasted a wide range of 2010s, but was only able to revisit a handful of 2009s, as production is just a barrel or two for most wines. These are some of the most interesting wines being made in Burgundy today. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Fine Vines, IL; tel. (708) 343-6702, Cavatappi, Washington; tel. (206) 282-5226, Veritas Imports, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800, Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212)683-8763