Packaged in a fancy bottle, it stakes a claim to class. Does it succeed? Yes, with pretty apple and spice aromas and rich apple- citrus flavors. Tart acids make it bright, and there are some nice dusty tannins. Doesn’t quite achieve complexity, but it’s a great drink, and, at this price, one of the year’s best values in a white aperitif-style wine. ——S.H.(12/15/2001)—— 87