Tries, like Henry Higgins, to boost Pinot Gris’ homely, Eliza Doolittle personality into My Fair Lady, with some success. Has brilliantly upfront melon and citrus flavors, and was given lees aging for addi-tional complexity. It’s fun to drink, and fancy-complex, but it is kind of sweet, and displays sugar in the finish, for some reason.——S.H.(11/1/2003)—— 86