A relatively new project for Chapoutier in the Coteaux du Languedoc includes three impressive cuvees of Mas de la Barben. The finest effort in this trilogy is the 2003 Barben. Primarily Grenache that was aged in 600-liter demi-muids, it exhibits tremendous amounts of kirsch liqueur, herbes de Provence, pepper, leather, and earth characteristics. With gorgeous fruit, a big, sweet texture, and a long, heady finish, it should drink well for 5-8 years. Readers should note the American importer for these cuvees is Jeffrey Davies Signature Selections, West Nyack, NY; tel. (845) 353-8767 As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity.Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900
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