A cuvee from older vines, the 2004 Auxerrois Cuvee A smells of tangerine, banana, and vanilla, comes to the palate with satisfying ripeness, hints of citrus zest bitterness, and a slightly milky undertone, and finishes with a sense of chalky minerality although not impressive clarity. Jean Albrecht offers a range of negotiant wines (sparkling, and those labeled “Reserve”) as well as domaine bottlings, together with a remarkably deep range of older vintages, and none of the 2005s from his top sites had been bottled yet last Spring, nor was he willing to show them. Among numerous ambitious plans afoot here is a replanting program based entirely on selection massale from the estate’s best old vines.Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, NY; tel. (914) 630-8214