Greg La Follette, who made this wine, understands the Van der Kamp vineyard, where this wine comes from, better than anyone. It’s a startling wine, rich and full-bodied, yet utterly delicious in youthful appeal. With a fine, dry structure, it offers enormous flavors of cherries, raspberries, currants, mocha, cinnamon and smoky oak, and the finish lasts for a full minute. Expensive, but all the proceeds are for charity.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 94