The 2009 Not Yet Named Red (Booker Vineyard) is another exciting, racy wine. It bursts from the glass with a rush of super-ripe blue and black fruits. This is an especially round, generous style, with plenty of inner sweetness and perfume woven throughout the fruit. Warm, spicy notes frame the finish. The blend here is 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 15% Mourvedre. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Matt Trevisan is one of the more colorful characters in Paso Robles. His wines are equally eccentric, and show flashes of brilliance sprinkled with plenty of unexpected twists. Trevisan seems to be especially gifted with Zinfandel based blends. Like some of his colleagues, Trevisan has begun experimenting with fermenting in cement vats. I get the sense that if Trevisan were a little more focused his wines could make a significant jump in quality. I also tasted the 2009 Nemesis and Slacker from barrel just before bottling, but neither wine seemed to be showing well. I will report on those wines once I have a chance to taste them in finished form from bottle.Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com

The unnamed 2007 blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre from Booker Vineyard exhibits a dense purple color as well as sweet kirsch and blackberry fruit intermixed with notes of licorice, pepper, and spice. Full-bodied with tremendous texture, good acidity and delineation, it should drink nicely for 5-7 years. (Not yet released)Matt Trevisan has a new state-of-the-art winery and barrel-aging facility as well as access to a new 18-acre estate vineyard. Like some of his nearby neighbors (particularly Justin Smith of Saxum), this is one of the most exciting wineries to visit on Vineyard Drive, essentially the tenderloin section of the limestone hillside vineyards of West Paso Robles. Production at Linne Calodo was off by 30-40 percent in 2007, and another 10% in 2008, but given the global economic crisis most wine producers are probably happy to have high quality, but smaller quantities given the financial climate throughout the world.Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868