The 2009 Not Yet Named Red (Booker Vineyard) is another exciting, racy wine. It bursts from the glass with a rush of super-ripe blue and black fruits. This is an especially round, generous style, with plenty of inner sweetness and perfume woven throughout the fruit. Warm, spicy notes frame the finish. The blend here is 70% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 15% Mourvedre. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Matt Trevisan is one of the more colorful characters in Paso Robles. His wines are equally eccentric, and show flashes of brilliance sprinkled with plenty of unexpected twists. Trevisan seems to be especially gifted with Zinfandel based blends. Like some of his colleagues, Trevisan has begun experimenting with fermenting in cement vats. I get the sense that if Trevisan were a little more focused his wines could make a significant jump in quality. I also tasted the 2009 Nemesis and Slacker from barrel just before bottling, but neither wine seemed to be showing well. I will report on those wines once I have a chance to taste them in finished form from bottle.Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com