The 2009 Problem Child shows off gorgeous inner perfume, juicy red cherries, menthol and licorice, all of which come together beautifully in this gorgeous wine. The intensity of the fruit flows gracefully to the striking, inviting finish. There is weightless, transparent quality along with expressive aromatics that makes this a totally beguiling wine. The blend is 76% Zinfandel, 15% Syrah and 9% Mourvedre. The unique qualities of Zinfandel add considerable character to this unique, gorgeous red. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Matt Trevisan is one of the more colorful characters in Paso Robles. His wines are equally eccentric, and show flashes of brilliance sprinkled with plenty of unexpected twists. Trevisan seems to be especially gifted with Zinfandel based blends. Like some of his colleagues, Trevisan has begun experimenting with fermenting in cement vats. I get the sense that if Trevisan were a little more focused his wines could make a significant jump in quality. I also tasted the 2009 Nemesis and Slacker from barrel just before bottling, but neither wine seemed to be showing well. I will report on those wines once I have a chance to taste them in finished form from bottle.Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com

The elegant, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2008 Problem Child (70% Zinfandel, 17% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre) is an elegant, almost Burgundian take on Rhone Ranger winemaking. In a graceful, more restrained style, with delicious flavors of forest floor, briary fruit, and blacker cherries and earth, the wine is medium-bodied, has good freshness and vibrancy, and a nice, attractive finish. This is one of my favorite wineries in the Central Coast. The brain trust behind it is the one and only Matt Trevisan, who has moved into a state-of-the-art winery and barrel-aging facility. Additionally, he is just beginning to get some fruit off the first plantings in the 18-acre estate vineyard. Production is up to about 3,800 to 4,000 cases, although like everyone else in the Central Coast region, yields have been very small in 2007, 2008, and 2009. 2008 has turned out very well for Trevisan, but the yields were extremely small.Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868

The 2007 Problem Child (72% Zinfandel, 16% Syrah, and 12% Mourvedre) showcases Trevisan’s intelligent blending where he takes fruit from some of the area’s finest old vine, dry-farmed Zinfandel vineyards and blends it with Rhone varietals, which results in a far more complex wine than if it were 100% Zinfandel. The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2007 Problem Child exhibits plenty of berry fruit, pepper, garrigue, forest floor, and earthy notes, full body, great fruit purity, density, and glycerin, and plenty of freshness as well as vivacity. This cuvee possesses nearly 16% natural alcohol, but you would never know that given its freshness. Matt Trevisan has a new state-of-the-art winery and barrel-aging facility as well as access to a new 18-acre estate vineyard. Like some of his nearby neighbors (particularly Justin Smith of Saxum), this is one of the most exciting wineries to visit on Vineyard Drive, essentially the tenderloin section of the limestone hillside vineyards of West Paso Robles. Production at Linne Calodo was off by 30-40 percent in 2007, and another 10% in 2008, but given the global economic crisis most wine producers are probably happy to have high quality, but smaller quantities given the financial climate throughout the world.Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868