Probably my favorite in the lineup (although there are certainly no dogs here), the 2013 Martyr is a Mourvedre-dominated cuvee that incorporates 15% Syrah, 5% Tannat and a tiny splash of Cinsault. While you don't see too many Mourvedre-dominated wines, I think the future is certainly bright for this variety in Paso Robles and its potential is just now starting to be explored. Black fruits, licorice, charcoal, smoked meats and hints of chocolate all emerge from this big, rich, textured and full-bodied beauty that has tons of richness, a stacked mid-palate and a great finish. It will evolve nicely for 10-15 years.

Trevisan’s take on a Bandol, the 2010 Martyr checks in as a blend of 77% Mourvedre, 12% Syrah, 7% Tannat and 4% Grenache. Deeply fruited and rich, it dishes out rocking aromas and flavors of sweet red fruits, licorice, toasted spice and a wild array of cured meat-like qualities that keep you coming back to the glass. Full-bodied, rich and downright sexy on the palate, it’s easily the most textured and rich of the lineup, it has the fruit to be enjoyable now, yet should age effortlessly for 10-12 years or more. Drink 2014-2023. This was a fantastic lineup of wines by proprietor Matt Trevisan and all of the current releases have brilliant purity of fruit and a lively, energetic feel without ever coming across as lean. Blends are the rule here and these are character-filled efforts that could come from nowhere else. Highly recommended. Tel (805) 227-0797; www.linnecalodo.com

The 2005 Martyr, a 120-case blend of 68% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah and Grenache, is Trevisan’s version of a Bandol. Its deep blue/purple color is followed by pure notes of blueberries, raspberries, crushed rocks, and background oak and earth. This powerful (15.6% alcohol), moderately tannic beauty will benefit from another 1-2 years of bottle age, and should drink well for 10-12 years. Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868