From Bolgheri, what’s fast becoming the Tuscan Gold Coast, this Cabernet Sauvignon (with 15% Sangiovese) offers complex aromas of bacon, rose hip and vanilla. The palate is more basic than one might expect, given the exclusive neighborhood it comes from. There’s round plummy fruit and creamy oak. The chewy, weighty finish is filled with residual plum and cherry flavors.——M.S.(8/1/2002)—— 87