Most Washington Cab-Merlots are low-end wines, but in this case it is a true reserve, though not labeled as such. Bordeaux-like structure, tight and herbal and young. I suspect it will age very well, as a recent taste of the winery’s stellar 1991 Reserve demonstrated. Here the tannins are nicely managed; the hint of oak is just right.——P.G.(12/31/2003)—— 89