A single (older) barrel of Kollwentz 2006 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese smells outrageously typically of sage flower, cassis, and pink grapefruit. Gaudy and candied in its sweet suggestions of herbal lozenges, candied citrus rind, and black currant candies, it certainly finishes with striking intensity. But will more refinement develop, and will the sweetness back off in any reasonable amount of time? The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700