Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Schutt Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The sweetly ripely and subtly flower-scented Knoll 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Schutt exhibits a crystalline as well as crushed stone sense of tactile mineral impingement playing against a rich background of pear, kiwi, and snap pea. Texturally polished and expansive, it nonetheless harnesses its acidity like a fleet-footed Riesling. Saline, iodine-tinged shrimp shell reduction lends saliva inducement and fruit pip piquancy invigoration to a soaring finish as transparent to nuances as it is vibrantly interactive. I would anticipate close to two decades’ worth of excitement from this beauty. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Schutt displays a nose of lentil, herbs, distilled pit fruits, smoke, and dusty crushed stone. Glossy, rich, and low-toned on the palate, with lentil and peach accented by pepper and peach kernel, this finishes with persistent pungency in counterpoint with a soothing, almost honeyed richness. It should age well for at least 6-8 years. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700