Weingut Emmerich Knoll Ried Schutt Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Knoll’s 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Schutt comes onto the palate with clear, precisely delineated and relatively delicate flavors of snap pea, rhubarb preserves, nutmeg, and pepper, but it gains momentum on the palate and finishes as a huge stain of white pepper, honey, apple pip, and salty, pungent, pulverized stone minerality. Even the aromas are of dusty crushed stone, along with snap peas, nutmeg, and pepper. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700