Kir-Yianni Estate Tesseris Limnes, Florina, Greece

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The 2009 Tesseris Limnes is typically a 60/40 blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Gewurztraminer, with some other grapes occasionally added in some years; there is a little Roditis this year. The grapes are all sourced from the winery's vineyards in Amyndeon. The Chardonnay was 50% oak aged. Perky and sprightly, this is a blend that winds up working quite well. On the lighter side in body, it is nonetheless persistent, laced with hints of the gewurztraminer, while not quite seeming to be all the way gewurz - as you might expect from the grape blend. It has some nods to Sauvignon Blanc, and then the lychee notes take over. It is mouthwatering on the finish. This unusual blend is quite charming, a perfect summer wine. Drink it fresh for best results. Drink now-2012. Importer: VOS Selections, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 967-6948; Dionysos Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. (703) 392-7073

A mineral nose. Powerful and pungent with good balance, perfume and structure. And it''s not at all cloying.