From another cask that while far from new, still gives an aura to wines, Kerpen’s “one-star” 2006 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese delivers caramel, resin, mocha, and vanilla in a low-toned, rich, soothing suggestion (sticking with musical metaphors) an orchestra without fiddles. This sedate, lingering Auslese is not marked by fresh fruit, but a sense of wet stone slate character emerges in its finish. It maintains to a remarkable degree the buoyancy, elegance, and clarity of the best wines of this vintage. Look for at least 20 years of interesting evolution here, and wouldn’t it be fascinating to serve this on the same occasion as Kerpen’s dry Domprobst? Martin Kerpen and his vines had a hard act to follow after their successes in 2005 but were more than up to the task, confirming the hypothesis that these always excellent wines have crossed a new quality threshold. Still, the last place I would have imagined 2006s keeping pace was in the range of trocken.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

There is a “one-star” 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese* that emphasizes aromatic notes of toasted nuts, honey, brown spices, and dried apples. In the mouth, it displays an undeniably concentrated but rather severe dried fruit character with a sizzling overlay of botrytis. The finish is smoky, resinous, replete with pineapple, dried apple, honey, and spice. Impressive in its way, this wine is not so juicy, invigorating, nor texturally alluring as most of its stable mates. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300