Erbes’ 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein is exceptionally delicate at a mere 6.5% alcohol, and surprisingly exhibits some of the same (in my mind 1971-like) bread, yeast, and honey manifestations of botrytis in the nose as did the corresponding “one-star” Auslese. (A faintly radish-like, Eiswein-typical prickle is there if you look for it.) Atypically creamy, oily, and mild in its acid impression for Eiswein, this cannot however be faulted on purity or sheer length. Imagine strawberry-lime chiffon glazed with quince preserves and you have some idea of this delectable Riesling that could serves as genuine dessert wine, and is probably best employed over the next 10 years. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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