Weingut Karl Erbes Urziger WUrzgarten Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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Pear, quince, and strawberry inform the nose and a very pure palate of Erbes’ 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese, which offers a pure, polished, honey-glazed reflection of its site. There is enough juicy sense of citrus as well as a salty streak to enliven the wine’s long, sweet finish. Here too is exhibited the delicacy and lift that characterize so many of the best Mosel wines of its vintage. Erbes says he had to pick across many parcels to net just 400 bottles of this Auslese, which should be a 20 or more year keeper. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Erbes’ 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese One Star -- representing a mere hundred liters selected from the material that informed his outstanding “regular” Auslese – leads with a bread- and truffle-like side of botrytis that reminds me of the great 1971 vintage. Strawberry and quince preserves emerge as well on both nose and palate, and this displays a soothing, creamy, honeyed impression unusually relaxed for the vintage. It hasn’t the lift of the mineral counterpoint of that star-less Auslese, but is impressively long. Stefan Erbes has been attracting considerable positive attention even in the relatively residual sugar-adverse German press, so I thought it high time to meet and taste with him. A sizeable percentage of old, ungrafted vines and ambitious quality-consciousness on his part are combining for some very good, ultra-clean, largely tank-rendered, and modestly-priced Riesling, most of it – predictably – sold abroad, particularly in Japan. His 2008s struck me as surprisingly soft in their impression of acidity, which Erbes attributes in part to a combination of skin contact and high tartrate precipitation.Importers include Boston Wine Company, Somerville, MA; tel. (617) 628-5967 and Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Thick, viscous and sweet, Erbes’ one-star auslese lacks the finesse and racy elegance of the best examples, but still offers sweet flavors of dried pineapple and ripe melon, balanced by hints of petrol. A slightly earthy, bitter note creeps in on the finish. Imported by Chapin Cellars, LLC. ——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 89

Smoky and minerally on the nose, gradually opening up to reveal candied pineapple and pink grapefruit notes. It’s sweet yet light-bodied on the palate, with flavors of red berries and quince that are refreshing on the finish.——J.C.(12/15/2004)—— 88

A fat, rich, lush wine, the 2002 Riesling Auslese Urziger Wurzgarten ** displays honeyed stone, spice, and pear aromas. On the palate, this plush, plump wine offers a marmalade of minerals and candied white fruits. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. Chapin Cellars, imported by Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700