I am a fan of much of what proprietor Terry Leighton produces. Kalin's superb Sauvignon Blancs, long-lived, complex Chardonnays, and earthy, Cote de Nuits-like Pinot Noirs are complex, distinctive wines. The Cabernet Sauvignon has never been made in a forward, easy to understand and drink style. Given sufficient age, my experience has been that most Kalin Cabernets will provide interesting drinking, so perhaps this 1986 Reserve only needs another 15-20 years of cellaring! The wine's color remains a dense ruby/purple, with no amber or brown hues. The low-keyed nose of cedar, spice, and currants is youthful and restrained. Hard and tannic, with an austerity and toughness that create an unattractive aggressiveness, this wine has a borderline fruit deficiency. For all my reservations, I would not be surprised to see a marked improvement in 15-20 years. That's how much confidence I have in owner/winemaker Terry Leighton. For now, it is an unattractive, spartan-like wine that appears to lack fruit.The tasting notes for this section are from two single blind tastings, one conducted in May, 1996, in California, and the other in June, 1996, in Baltimore.
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