There is no typographical error – the current release is the 1995 Chardonnay Cuvee LD. This reasonably priced white was bottled without filtration in August, 1996. Nearly fifteen years later, it still exhibits a light straw color with only a hint of gold. The wine is amazingly youthful, offering up notes of unbuttered popcorn, white currants, white peaches, honeysuckle and background earth and orange/nectarine characteristics. Medium to full-bodied with zesty acidity and, by California’s standards, moderately high alcohol (14.8%), it should continue to drink well for at least another decade. No kidding. Unfortunately, I did not see Kalin’s Sauvignon Blanc, which, for me, has long been a reference point for Sauvignon. Probably the most idiosyncratic winery in California (that covers a number of unusual and eccentric proprietors), Kalin Cellars, run by microbiologist Terry Leighton, has a remarkable track record of long-aged Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Semillons as well as Pinot Noirs, all of which march to the beat of a completely different drummer. I was a buyer early on until it became almost impossible to find the wines in the Maryland/DC market. I also tasted the 1998 Pinot Noir Cuvee DD, which I did not like. I say that because I have some of Kalin’s Pinot Noirs from the early eighties in my cellar and they are aging beautifully. I kept asking myself what I was missing in the 1998, but it was herbal and tomato-like. However, I have seen Leighton’s wines do complete make-overs in the bottle, so I could very well have misjudged this offering from an eccentric genius working out of a warehouse in Marin County.Tel. (415) 883-3543; Fax (925) 283-2909

Leighton’s 1994 Chardonnay Cuvee LD is made from an old Wente clone. It exhibits notes of subtle pineapples, poached pears, citrus oil, and background oak and charcoal scents. Crisp and full-bodied with impressive balance and harmony, it should continue to evolve for 8-10 years. The idiosyncratic Terry Leighton, who has produced some magnificent wines that have stood the test of time for nearly two decades, releases his wines 2-10 years later than most producers. I have always loved them, and I have been remiss in not reporting on them as frequently as I should. He often makes what may be the finest Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon in California.Tel. (415) 883-3543; Fax (925) 283-2909