If you do not care for a heavy, syrupy style of Zinfandel, then don’t try this. Although it isn’t stewed, it’s on that cusp in terms of ripeness. Earthy, barnyard aromas signal a deep, prune-driven palate. And the finish is also heavy, but by then the wine’s coffee, toffee and chocolate notes might be growing on you. ——M.S.(11/1/2002)—— 85