Kimich's 1993s are well-made wines, but they merit slightly lower scores than previous vintages. They are all off-dry, elegant, less concentrated wines than I have seen from Kimich in other top vintages. The Forster Elster Riesling Kabinett was understated but elegant, with attractive grapefruit and underripe apricot-like flavors. All of these wines should be drunk over the near term as they do not appear to have the extract Kimich has obtained in other vintage. Importer: Chapin Cellars, Virginia Beach, VA; tel. (804) 481-4755

Kimich's two Kabinett offerings, the 1992 Forster Elster and 1992 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker are both sensational wines, as well as great bargains. The Forster Elster offers an earthy, cinnamon-scented nose, intense, concentrated, dry flavors with great purity and ripeness, and a long, lusty finish. It should be drunk over the next 3-4 years.Importer: Chapin Cellars Inc., Virginia Beach, VA.