The 2010 Nuits St.-Georges Les Vaucrains is wonderfully complete. It is a big wine, yet all of the elements are beautifully integrated to a greater extent than in some of the other wines. The tannins are firm yet retain a certain level of elegance and finesse. The Vaucrains is deep, powerful and flat out great. Tar, smoke and incense are some of the notes that develop as the wine works its way to the huge, building finish. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Jerome Chezeaux took over his family’s estate in 1994. The winery was originally founded in 1938, but only began bottling in the late 1960s. The 2010 harvest started on September 25 and lasted six days. The wines saw about 21 days of cuvaison (including 4-5 days cold soak) and were then aged in oak, with a fairly low amount of new wood, as is typical here. Yields were down 40% on average. The 2010s are on average excellent. The entry-level wines are terrific, both on absolute and relative terms. A number of the top 1er Crus and the Clos de Vougeot struck me as a bit closed, which is not surprising given the personality of the year. I will not be surprised if some of the top 2010s are even more impressive from bottle.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The 2009 Nuits St.-Georges Les Vaucrains caresses the palate with an elegant, feminine expression of fruit. The Vaucrains is all about restraint, class and refinement. It is a totally sublime wine that will blossom with further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Enticing nose of earth, dried herb, black cherry and blueberry. Pure, concentrated and very primary with a good finish. It has quite grippy tannins and very, classic, earthy dark fruit and a long, velvety finish. Drink: 2012%u20132018. Alc: 13.5%.

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Vaucrains presents the darker, juicier side of Nuits in its rich, textured dark fruit. New leather, sweet spices and licorice are some of the aromas and flavors that develop in the glass. The muscular style and firm tannins argue for considerable patience. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039. Jerome Chezeaux farms a total of 11.2 hectares of vineyards, of which 6.6 are estate owned. The fruit is 100% destemmed. Chezeaux favors fairly lengthy macerations. New oak levels are on the low side. As is the case at many estates, the 2009s have a slight upper hand in many of the entry and mid-level wines, while at the high end the 2008s are superb. Either way, these are some of the most beautiful, classically built wines I tasted on my trip. Patience is required, though, as these are sturdy wines that need bottle age.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990