The 2006 Chablis Premier Cru Rive Gauche Mineral (labeled “Quintessence” outside the U.S. market) marries the fruit of Montmains and Vau de Vey. Saline chicken stock and ripe white peach and grapefruit fill both the nose and palate, and distinctive chalk dust suggestions add to the interest of a generous, refined, and refreshing finish. This should be lovely to follow for 4-6 years. Since my visit, Quebecois cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, who arrived here in 2005 from Verget, has been replaced by Nadine Gublin of Domaine Jacques Prieure. A significant portion of the vast Brocard estate is now being farmed biodynamically. Piuze, like many vintners this year, favored racking his young wines off their lees earlier than usual with the intention of avoiding any heaviness. I did not by any means taste all of the enormous range of wines crafted at this address, and including several different labels. Brocard bottled from 2006 the first commercial quantities of three premier cru cuvees under the name “Quintessence,” each representing a broad range of sites that precludes “single vineyard” status. (I place that expression in quotes, since the names of many of the best-known premier crus by law already serve as collective or alternate names for certain nearby crus.) The blends are largely determined as juice, subject to some later fine-tuning.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400