Brocard’s 2012 Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire mingles apple, white peach and gooseberry in a simple and modestly ripe, but polished and persistently juicy, bracing and refreshing performance. Enjoy it over the next couple of years. Julien Brocard reports unproblematic alcoholic fermentations and malo-lactic conversions in his 2012s, although the grand crus among them were not at a stage in elevage and assemblage that he felt permitted them to be assessed at the time of my June visit. The substantial subset of Brocard 2012 premier crus I tasted was determined by limitations of time; Brocard’s notion of wines that were at a perspicuous point in their elevage; and my choices of certain crus that I did not want to miss. Virtually all of the Brocard crus are now being farmed biodynamically and major inroads in that direction have been made with their village-level vineyards, too (most notably in the historical core of the family’s holdings that constitute the Domaine Sainte Claire). Julien Brocard is of the opinion that 2012 presented the sort of test in extremity that biodynamics at his domaine under-went as well in 2003, and that not only does this approach conduce to quality, but also to more regular yields. Yields from those vineyards that weren’t being biodynamically farmed, he reports, nosedived in both vintages while the others experienced only a small dip. Potential alcohol in 2012 was only slightly higher than in 2011, and nowadays most Brocard wines weigh-in well below 13%; but most of the sizeable share of 2011s I tasted – both the more exuberant among them, and some that were, for now at least, more restrained – share a disarming and delightful sense of levity. Vinificatory vessels at this address continue their nearly decade-long trend toward diversification, with larger barrels, full-fledged foudre and concrete eggs all supplementing the more prosaic stainless steel tanks and barriques. Incidentally, like Fevre, Brocard is now utilizing DIAM composite cork to stopper their wines, right up through grand cru. Various importers, including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, M.S. Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776-6700 and Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763

The 2011 Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire (from tank) shows lovely density and depth. It is a typical Petit Chablis with good immediacy and an uncomplicated personality. Dried pears, crushed flowers and licorice flow through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. These 2011s and 2010s from the vast Brocard portfolio (which also includes Domaine Herve Azo) are quite representative of the respective years. The 2010s have excellent depth of fruit and acidity, while the 2011s are pretty, easygoing wines best suited to near-term drinking. In general terms, the Brocard wines tend to be fairly bold and up-front in style. Importers: Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763, Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, Elite Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 526-6383, Vanguard Wines, Columbus, OH; tel. (614) 291-3493, Tenzing Wine & Spirits, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 237-4000

The 2011 Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Claire (from tank) shows lovely density and depth. It is a typical Petit Chablis with good immediacy and an uncomplicated personality. Dried pears, crushed flowers and licorice flow through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. These 2011s and 2010s from the vast Brocard portfolio (which also includes Domaine Herve Azo) are quite representative of the respective years. The 2010s have excellent depth of fruit and acidity, while the 2011s are pretty, easygoing wines best suited to near-term drinking. In general terms, the Brocard wines tend to be fairly bold and up-front in style.Importers: Verity Wine Partners, New York, NY; tel. (212) 683-8763, Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500, Elite Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 526-6383, Vanguard Wines, Columbus, OH; tel. (614) 291-3493, Tenzing Wine & Spirits, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 237-4000

The 2010 Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Clair comes across as quite generous for the vintage. Clean steely notes frame a core of white fruit in this attractive entry-level wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. (Not yet released) I tasted a wide range of wines at Domaine Brocard with oenologist Nadine Gublin, including the wines of Brocard's other Chablis properties, which are reviewed separately. In 2009, the harvest began in mid-September. The wines were vinified with ambient yeasts in steel and/or oak, depending on the vineyard, and aged on their lees until the malos were finished. The Cote de Lechet, Fourchaume, Bougros, Valmur and Les Clos were fermented and aged in 100-hectoliter conical oak vats. Brocard bottled the 2009s in late 2010 and early 2011. The Brocard wines are generally quite rich and lush in texture relative to most of the other wines in the region. One of the other important characteristics of this lineup is that the most complete, successful bottlings don't always come from the most prestigious sites. I also noted that the house and vintage style marked the 2009s to a greater degree than at many other addresses, while the 2010s show more site specificity. A number of the 2010s were still undergoing malolactic fermentation, so I was only able to taste a selection of the wines from that year. The estate's vineyards are currently being converted to biodynamic farming. It will be interesting to see where the wines go from here. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The 2010 Petit Chablis Domaine Sainte Clair comes across as quite generous for the vintage. Clean steely notes frame a core of white fruit in this attractive entry-level wine. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. (Not yet released)I tasted a wide range of wines at Domaine Brocard with oenologist Nadine Gublin, including the wines of Brocard's other Chablis properties, which are reviewed separately. In 2009, the harvest began in mid-September. The wines were vinified with ambient yeasts in steel and/or oak, depending on the vineyard, and aged on their lees until the malos were finished. The Cote de Lechet, Fourchaume, Bougros, Valmur and Les Clos were fermented and aged in 100-hectoliter conical oak vats. Brocard bottled the 2009s in late 2010 and early 2011. The Brocard wines are generally quite rich and lush in texture relative to most of the other wines in the region. One of the other important characteristics of this lineup is that the most complete, successful bottlings don-t always come from the most prestigious sites. I also noted that the house and vintage style marked the 2009s to a greater degree than at many other addresses, while the 2010s show more site specificity. A number of the 2010s were still undergoing malolactic fermentation, so I was only able to taste a selection of the wines from that year. The estate's vineyards are currently being converted to biodynamic farming. It will be interesting to see where the wines go from here.Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400