This is such a special treat. Despite its hefty price tag, the 2015 Malvasia is absolutely worth your time and effort. Vintners in this part of Italy are achieving wonders with this grape. The soils and cool growing conditions of this hilly region bring out those elusive floral aromas of orange or almond blossom that come so naturally to this grape. You taste the results of skin contact during fermentation (with thicker, more pronounced aromas). The wine pours from the bottle with a halo-like golden hue. Production is limited to 3,500 bottles.

Il Carpino makes a very unusual Malvasia. The 2011 Malvasia opens to a saturated golden color, followed by thickly enriched aromas of candied fruit, dried apricot, butterscotch and caramel. Following in a specific school of winemaking that is common in this part of Northeast Italy, this wine is executed in a noticeably oxidative style. In the mouth, it delivers ample richness and sweetness. In fact, this Malvasia is better classified as a medium dry Italian white. It completes one week of skin maceration and ages in oak for 18 months.

The best wine of all, for me, is the 2001 Malvasia, very expressive in its aromas and flavors of apricots, quince, lemon rind, and pepper, has an almost Riesling-like vivacity, freshness, and light minerality, but with volume and amplitude to spare. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 398-5871