The Gladstones Cabernet is always an impressive wine on release and ages slowly, like all good Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignons. Unfortunately, we, the drinkers, will not get the opportunity to taste any museum stock from Houghton, due to a tragic warehouse fire in 2019 that destroyed the vinous history of the house. So, to say that this 2020 Gladstones Cabernet Sauvignon is prettier and more red-fruited than the previous releases will only be provable by tastings that you conduct in the privacy of your own home. Suffice to say, this is all about pomegranate, pink peppercorns, cassis, tobacco leaf, saltbush, bay leaf and nori. This might be one of the greatest Gladstones on release that I have tried. Bravo Treacher, bravo.

With a very deep garnet color, the 2004 Gladstones Cabernet Sauvignon reveals pronounced blackberry and earthy, meaty, gamey notes with a supporting bouquet of black truffles, soy sauce and Chinese dried plum. After a few minutes, evolved leather and tobacco characters are unearthed. Concentrated, developed, savory flavors dominate the palate with medium to high acidity and a medium to high level of fine tannins providing a bit of chew throughout the long finish. Drink it now to 2018+. In my student days one of my favorite tipples was the old Houghton’s White Burgundy. Of course now the name has had to change (as has my palate, thankfully), and the same wine under its new label didn’t quite make the grade here. The estate, now under the auspices of Constellation’s empire, does however continue to produce some absolutely cracking reds that are most definitely worth hunting-down. Under the Constellation Brands umbrella, Houghton is not currently available in the USA. www.cwines.com.au