The wine that won my heart this time was without a doubt the 2014 Finca la Emperatriz Garnacha Cepas Viejas. This wine is sourced from the Rioja Alta subzone, not quite the classical Garnacha place, from the only old-vine Garnacha plot they have in the estate. It displays a captivating nose of sweet Garnacha fruit akin to cherries in liqueur, but keeping the freshness in a coolish vintage like 2014. The uncrushed grapes fermented in open-top stainless steel vats and 500-liter oak barrels with indigenous yeasts after five days of pre-fermentative maceration, and it matured in 500-liter oak barrels for ten months. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, delicious fresh flavors and very good length, ending with a tasty, almost salty note. 8,966 bottles and a bunch of magnums were produced and filled in November 2014.

With a sweet and captivating nose, the 2012 Finca la Emperatriz Garnacha Cepas Viejas is sourced from the Rioja Alta subzone (not the classical Garnacha place), from the only old-vine Garnacha plot they have in the estate. It is fermented in open-top, stainless-steel vats with indigenous yeasts after 4-5 days of pre-fermentative maceration and matured in 500-liter oak barrels for 11 months. It has a sweet, red fruit nose with toasty notes, ripe without excess, with some floral tones. The palate is medium-bodied with some fine tannins and a slightly bitter finish that makes me think the wine needs a little bit more time in bottle to blossom fully, as I think it has what it requires. 6,975 bottles produced.

The 2011 Finca La Emperatriz Garnacha Cepas Viejas is very attractive and showy, starting with its bright ruby color and following with its perfumed nose of dried roses, orange rind and sweet cherries. The palate has more weight than the nose might make you guess, with some fine tannins, good balance and clean flavors. Having said all this I still think it would even benefit from some more time in bottle. Drink 2014-2018. Bodegas La Emperatriz is a young company, created in 1999, with the solid foundation of a great vineyard in Banos de Rioja, 10 kilometers southwest of Haro in a cold zone of Rioja Alta that had belonged to Empress (hence the name Emperatriz) Eugenia de Montijo, wife of Napoleon, which seems to be going from strength to strength offering wines crafted exclusively from their 85 hectares of estate vineyard. This is a name to follow, although I found some wines where the oak treatment seemed a bit excessive for the fruit and might require some fine tuning. Imported by New Vinergia, NY; www.vinergia.com

The 2010 Finca La Emperatriz Garnacha Cepas Viejas comes from 65-year-old bush vines. It has a vivacious bouquet of red cherries, kirsch, raspberry and vanilla that is beautifully defined. The palate has a sensual, rounded entry that gently grips the mouth and then gracefully builds with spicy red fruits laced with cloves and white pepper. It dovetails into a beguiling finish that has a sense of natural “completeness.” This is a wonderful pure Garnacha. Drink now-2022. Bodegas La Emperatriz, named after its 19th century owner “Eugenia de Montijo” (the wife of Napoleon III), is located in Rioja Alta. It is owned by Victor and Eduardo Hernaiz, and the present winemaker is David Gonzalez. Theirs is a hugely impressive portfolio that singles out specific parcels and terroirs, though you should not ignore their excellent Crianza and Reserva. Factor in a wallet-friendly price and you have a winning formula. Importer: Vinergia USA, NY; www.vinergia.com

The 2007 Finca la Emperatriz Garnacha Cepas Viejas is 100% Garnacha sourced from 65-year-old bush vines. It was fermented and aged for 11 months in 500-liter French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it offers up a fragrant perfume of rose petal, cherry, spice box, and incense. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, savory, cherry and mineral flavored wine with a sense of elegance and good length. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. Importer: Perelada, www.castilloperelada.com