Weingut Kerpen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Mosel, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4183

鑒于 Kerpen Domprobst Grosses Gewachs 風(fēng)味充足，但是略顯粗糙并帶有苦味，2010 年份的 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb 則改善了該年份辛辣且提取物明顯偏高的典型印象，在品嘗其同系列的其它酒品時(shí)，這點(diǎn)尤為明確。此酒質(zhì)地絲滑，但不太穩(wěn)定（酒精含量為 11.5%,而 Grosses Gewachs 為13%。），伴有蘋(píng)果、板巖、淡淡的烤堅(jiān)果和檸檬皮的味道，這些味道一直保留到悠長(zhǎng)的余味中。適飲期：未來(lái) 3 至 4 年。

Kiwi and pineapple dominate the nose and luscious, juicy palate of Kerpen’s 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb, whose slight residual sugar is essentially wicked away by bright acids and buffered by ample extract. Lip-smacking salinity adds appeal to the finish of this lithe charmer, while notes of apple pip and crushed stone add to its sense of invigoration. It should show well for at least a decade, and I sense that when it settles down, more nuances will emerge, and it might conceivably some day even give its illustrious 2008 predecessor a run for the money. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

If you doubt that Martin Kerpen is on a roll, I dare you to try his 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb, often one of his most delightfully distinctive bottlings (always labeled with a commissioned work of art), but this year an extraordinary achievement and value! Fresh apple, clover, and a cyanic hint of apple pit in a lovely if demure nose lead to a seemingly weightless palate that prismatically projects a dynamic range of mineral and inner-mouth floral nuances on a luscious matrix of apple, cassis, grapefruit, and nut oils. Exquisitely-balanced at a feather light 10% alcohol and 21 grams of residual sugar - despite which it tastes dry - this billows its way into a finish at once soothing and invigoratingly refreshing. Given the inevitable versatility of this Riesling at table; its minimum ten year potential (prove both of the aforementioned virtues to yourself!); and the fact that no other grape or place on earth can render another wine remotely like it, I can only again rhetorically ask why German growers insist on vacating the space between 9 grams and 40 or 30 grams of residual sugar. In recent years, Martin Kerpen has increasingly proven himself a master of dry Riesling, and the acid structure and relatively moderate accumulation of grape sugar relative to phenolic ripeness that characterize 2008 played into his skilled hand in that genre, in which, additionally, he relied increasingly this year on ambient yeasts. (Of course, he is adept with residually sweet Riesling as well.) it's interesting to study Kerpen's detailed map of vineyard parcels, incidentally, and to see how after the controversial Flurbereinigung or general vineyard restructuring and replanting that is now under way in Wehlen, he will end up with around 8-9 parcels - some identical to his current acreage - or about half the number into which his total landholdings are morsellated at present.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A product of relatively early picking, Kerpen’s 2007 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett feinherb leads with lemon and apricot, then offers a sappy, bright display of same on a refreshing palate, and finishes with considerable lift and refreshment (at 11% alcohol); a distinct sense of wet stone; and no appreciable sweetness. I suspect this will be worth revisiting over a 5-6 year period. While Martin Kerpen’s extensive array of dry Rieslings from 2007 is not on quite the superlative order of their immediate predecessors, his residually sweet wines are again highly successful.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300