Floral perfume and sweet citrus oil rise seductively from a glass of Schrock’s 2007 Weissburgunder. With the combination of lush creaminess and elegance and vivacity that only this grape variety (in the right hands) can exhibit, and with a mingling of savory, saline, scallop-like, chalky minerality and nut oils, fresh apple, and citrus cream, this finishes with striking length and mineral complexity. There is a hint of brown spice, peony, and rose petal hovering about this as though a dollop of Gewurztraminer had been added. This will prove terrifically versatile and alluring for at least 5-7 years, I predict. As always, this wine was vinified entirely in tank, with long lees contact. New plantings will eventually increase production of Pinot Blanc by 50% chez Schrock. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Schrock’s 2005 Weissburgunder shows a pungently herbal character in the nose and toasty nuttiness than the superb 2005, but brings succulent fruit to the palate and finishes strongly with herbs, wet stone, chalk dust, lime, and toasted almond. This restrained, 13% alcohol rendering of Pinot Blanc may well gain stature with a bit more time in bottle, where it has only been for a month. (Incidentally, I was unconvinced by a rather oaky Pinot Gris.) Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The floral-scented 2001 Weissburgunder has a bright, fresh, lemony character with extremely lively acidity. This super-focused, light-bodied wine is tangy, thirst-quenching, and vivacious. Drink it over the next 12 months. The score attributed to this wine may appear conservative, especially by those who crave high acid wines. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300