Schrock’s 2007 Beerenauslese – like the past two year’s installments, composed of Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc – has again been bottled after little more than six months, to capture freshness. Creme caramel, poached pear, grilled pineapple, and hazelnut cream – all dusted with brown spices and salt – inform this creamily-textured, exceptionally delicate and buoyant Beerenauslese. Hints of yeast and white truffle point to botrytis, which however is of a fine and discreet sort. This is so lovely now I cannot see holding it for more than a few years, although it is no doubt capable of performing well for at least 6-8. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Schrock’s 2005 Beerenauslese, gathered in a single picking and already bottled in March, unites Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc under a blanket of noble rot. But what a blanket this is ... and what goes on under it! These grapes and their botrytis balance perfectly giving a light-footed, delicate palate impression even as the incipiently caramelized flavors and shriveled berry tones speak of advanced noble rot. Marzipan and hazelnut paste and creaminess of texture suggest a burnt-sugar frosting on the palate, yet a juicy, sappy rivulet of fresh citrus and pit fruits runs right through it. Subtle floral and sweet herbal nuances further enhance the sex appeal of this ravishing beauty. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300