Heidi Schrock Welschriesling- Weissburgunder Beerenauslese, Rust, Austria

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Schrock’s 2005 Beerenauslese, gathered in a single picking and already bottled in March, unites Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc under a blanket of noble rot. But what a blanket this is ... and what goes on under it! These grapes and their botrytis balance perfectly giving a light-footed, delicate palate impression even as the incipiently caramelized flavors and shriveled berry tones speak of advanced noble rot. Marzipan and hazelnut paste and creaminess of texture suggest a burnt-sugar frosting on the palate, yet a juicy, sappy rivulet of fresh citrus and pit fruits runs right through it. Subtle floral and sweet herbal nuances further enhance the sex appeal of this ravishing beauty. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300