Hartford is a high-aiming, small winery that’s part of the Jess Jackson empire. The single-vineyard Pinots are outstanding, this regional bottling somewhat less so. Still, it catches the cool Sonoma Coast qualities of acidity and elegance. You’ll find cherry and green tea flavors, and the wine should develop over the next five years. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 90

——W.E.(8/1/2003)—— 89